Iso e Super

Synthetic Ingredient Overview

• 🔎 Chemical Name: 1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethan-1-one

• 🧪 Synonyms: Iso E Super®, Isocyclemone E, Ambralux, Anthamber

• 🧬 Chemical Formula: C₁₆H₂₆O

• 📂 CAS N°: 54464-57-2

• 📘 FEMA: Not assigned

• ⚖️ MW: 234.38 g/mol

• 📝 Odor Type: Woody-Ambery

• 📈 Odor Strength: Medium

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile: Smooth, dry, ambery-woody cedar with velvety ambergris and patchouli effects; subtle phenolic nuance

• ⚗️ Uses: Fixative, backbone, enhancer; essential in woody, floral, and musky structures

• 🧴 Appearance: Clear to pale yellow mobile liquid

• 💧 Solubility: Soluble in alcohol; low water solubility (0.00268 g/L at 20 °C)

What is Iso E Super®?

Iso E Super® is a bicyclic ketone with aromatic characteristics designed to mimic dry woody-amber facets found in natural materials like cedarwood and ambergris. First developed by IFF in the early 1970s, it offers a lightweight yet powerful molecular structure that allows for both longevity and radiance in perfume compositions.

Its structure belongs to the tetramethyl-substituted octahydronaphthalene class, giving it chemical flexibility and a low odor threshold. Despite being nearly odorless to some individuals, its key isomer, later identified as Arborone, is responsible for the primary olfactory impact.

The Development and History of Iso E Super®

Iso E Super® was born out of structural experimentation with ionone-related compounds. IFF chemists John B. Hall and James M. Sanders filed the patent in 1973 for Isocyclemone E, its precursor. By 1975, Iso E Super® was first used in Halston for Women (25%). Its breakthrough came in 1988 with Fahrenheit by Dior, composed by Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Maurice Roger—one of the first "overdoses" of the molecule in fine perfumery.

Later studies by Givaudan revealed that Arborone, a minor constituent (~5%), drives Iso E Super’s character. This led to the creation of next-generation compounds like Georgywood (exclusive to Givaudan) and Iso Gamma (IFF), offering better solubility and environmental performance.

Iso E Super®'s adaptive nature and excellent cost-to-performance ratio have made it a staple across all fragrance categories, from luxury perfumes (e.g., Molecule 01) to functional products and soap bases.

Olfactory Profile & Perfumery Applications

• Olfactive Family: Woody-Ambery

• Main Notes: Cedarwood, ambergris, vetiver, patchouli, violet leaf

• Texture: Velvety, dry, transparent, musky

Applications in Fine Fragrance:

• Core backbone in masculine woody perfumes

• Enhancer of floral (especially rose, violet, iris) and musky accords

• Supports radiance and tenacity in aldehydic, amber, and spicy structures

Examples of Use:

• Dior Fahrenheit (1988) – breakthrough overdose (28–30%)

• Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 (2006) – 100% Iso E Super®

• Terre d’Hermès (2006) – ~55% Iso E Super®

• Lalique Perles – ~80%

• Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce – ~48%

Applications in Functional Products:

• Soaps, shampoos, detergents, deodorants

• Room sprays and air care for its smooth, non-overpowering radiance

Industrial Use & Chemical Properties

• Type: Bicyclic synthetic aromatic compound

• Functionality: Enhancer, fixative, radiance booster

• Volatility: Low; sits between heart and base notes

• Formulation Behavior: Highly stable, non-reactive, non-discoloring

• Biodegradability: Moderate to high (IFF developed biodegradable alternatives)

• Blend Compatibility: Excellent with musks, vanillin, sandalwood, cedar, florals

Regulatory & Safety Overview

• IFRA Compliance: No outright bans; usage limits vary by product category (per 51st Amendment QRA)

• EU 1223/2009: Not a declarable allergen

• REACH: Registered

• ECHA Classification: Not classified as hazardous

• Phototoxicity: Not phototoxic

• Toxicology: Not sensitizing; considered safe in standard usage

✅ Iso E Super® is widely regarded as safe, stable, and high-performing, with no known environmental hazards when used under recommended conditions.

Sources

• Scentspiracy Archives (Fulvio Ciccolo, 2024)

• The History of Iso E Super® in Perfumery – Matvey Yudov

• Perfume and Flavor Chemicals – S. Arctander (1969)

• IFF Product Portal & LMR Naturals by IFF

• Fragrantica & GlamourCosmetics.it

• PubChem CID 11120700