Amberwood F: A Woody-Amber Perfumery Molecule by Symrise

• 🔎 Chemical name — 2-Ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclo-penten-1-yl)-2-buten-1-ol

• 📂 CAS N° — 58567-11-6

• ⚖️ MW — 242.45 g/mol

• 📝 Odor type — Dry Ambery

• 📈 Odor Strength — Medium

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile —Dry, diffusive, woody-amber with ambergris-like nuances (Good Scents Company, 2023)

• ⚗️ Uses — Stable in body lotion (good), shampoo (good), soap (good), roll-on (good), powder (good), cleaner citric (poor), cleaner (good), bleach (poor) (Symrise)

• 🧪 Boiling Point: ~94°C at 1 mmHg

• 💧 Density @ 20°C: ~0.93 g/cm³

• 🔅 Refractive Index @ 20°C: 1.465–1.469

• 🧾 Log P (octanol/water): ~5.3 (lipophilic)

• 👁️ Appearance: Colorless liquid

• 🧊 Solubility: Insoluble in water, soluble in alcohols and essential oils

Amberwood F, also known as Boisambrene® Forte, is a synthetic aroma chemical belonging to the woody-amber family. Developed in the 1970s as an evolution of Boisambrene, this compound features a structural modification that enhances its intensity and olfactory persistence (Kao Chemicals, 1974).

Originally introduced by Kao Corporation, Amberwood F was later adopted and commercialized by Symrise, becoming an essential ingredient in perfumers' palettes due to its stability and versatility. Its widespread adoption in modern fragrance compositions has enabled the creation of amber and woody accords popular in both niche and commercial perfumery (Symrise, 2023).

Chemical Profile

Identity and Structure: Amberwood F is chemically ethoxymethoxycyclododecane, a cyclic ether also described as formaldehyde cyclododecyl ethyl acetal. It features a 12-carbon ring structure with an ethoxylated methylene bridge.

Synthesis: The industrial production of Amberwood F follows a two-step acetalization process:

1. Reaction of cyclododecanol with formaldehyde: Cyclododecanol reacts with formaldehyde in the presence of an acid catalyst, forming a chloromethoxylated intermediate (Givaudan, 1998).

2. Substitution with an ethoxy group: The intermediate is treated with sodium ethoxide to yield the final product.

This synthesis grants the compound high chemical stability, making it particularly suited for use in perfumery and cosmetics (IFRA, 2022).

Perfumery Applications

Amberwood F is classified as a base note, distinguished by its dry, long-lasting, and woody character, with an amber nuance reminiscent of ambergris. It has a moderate odor intensity and an extremely long-lasting effect (over 168 hours on a blotter) (Arctander, 1969). Its versatility makes it a key ingredient in numerous fragrance types:

• Woody fragrances: Adds depth and structure to cedar, sandalwood, and oud compositions.

• Amber accords: Used to create warm, ambery bases without excessive sweetness.

• Masculine perfumery: Common in fougère and oriental fragrances.

Due to its low volatility, Amberwood F also acts as a fixative, comparable to other common fixatives such as benzyl salicylate and galaxolide, which enhance longevity and diffusion in fragrances (Symrise, 2023).

Safety and Regulation

• IFRA: Subject to restrictions due to potential skin sensitization. The latest IFRA standards impose concentration limits in various product categories (IFRA, 2023).

• Toxicology: Studies indicate mild skin irritation at high concentrations in some individuals (RIFM, 2021).

• Environmental Regulation: Classified as "toxic to aquatic life with long-lasting effects," meaning its release into the environment should be controlled (ECHA, 2023).

Comparative Analysis

Amberwood F belongs to the woody-amber note family and is often compared to:

• Ambroxan: Softer and muskier, with marine facets, while Amberwood F is drier and woodier (Firmenich, 2005).

• Iso E Super: More transparent and floral compared to the drier, more structured character of Amberwood F (IFF, 2012).

• Norlimbanol: Stronger and harsher, with a "papery" effect compared to Amberwood F’s softer amber nuance (Givaudan, 1998).

Conclusion

Amberwood F is a fundamental ingredient in modern perfumery due to its tenacity, stability, and versatility. It is highly valued for its ability to enhance woody and amber accords, improving fragrance diffusion and longevity without overpowering other notes. With proper formulation, it can substitute or reinforce the effect of natural ambergris, as demonstrated in compositions such as Acqua di Parma's Colonia Intensa and various niche amber fragrances where it enhances woody-amber accords, offering a sustainable and reliable solution for perfumers.

References

• Arctander, S. (1969). Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin.

• ECHA. (2023). European Chemicals Agency Database.

• Firmenich. (2005). Technical Data Sheet for Ambroxan.

• Givaudan. (1998). Synthesis of Woody Amber Materials.

• Good Scents Company. (2023). Amberwood F Material Profile.

• IFRA. (2022). Fragrance Safety Guidelines.

• IFRA. (2023). 51st Amendment on Fragrance Restrictions.

• IFF. (2012). Iso E Super Olfactory Characteristics.

• Kao Chemicals. (1974). Development of Boisambrene Forte.

• RIFM. (2021). Research Institute for Fragrance Materials Safety Assessment.

• Symrise. (2023). Amberwood F: Technical Documentation.