Iris (Orris)

Natural Ingredient Overview

• 🌎 Origin: Multiple (France, Italy, Morocco)

• 🔎 Botanical Name: Iris pallida, Iris germanica

• 🧪 Synonyms: Orris, Orris Root, Orris Butter, Iris Absolute

• 🧬 Chemical Family: Ketones (mainly irones)

• 📂 CAS N°: 8002-43-5 (Orris Oil), 68916-55-2 (Absolute)

• 📘 FEMA: 2827

• ⚖️ MW: Varies; major component irone ≈ 194.29 g/mol

• 📝 Odor Type: Floral, Powdery

• 📈 Odor Strength: Medium; enhances on dilution

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile: Powdery, rooty, carrot-like, floral, sweet, earthy, slightly fruity (red fruits)

• ⚗️ Uses: Luxury perfumery, vintage florals, flavor applications

• 🧴 Appearance: Yellow-brown solid (concrete), waxy butter, or viscous liquid (absolute)

What is Orris?

Orris is obtained from the rhizomes of Iris pallida or Iris germanica, harvested and dried for 3–5 years to develop its characteristic fragrance. During aging, non-volatile precursors convert into irones—a group of methylionone-like ketones responsible for Orris’ distinctive powdery and sweet floral scent. The process of aging, extraction, and separation is labor-intensive and yield-limited, contributing to its high cost and prestige.

There are three main forms:

• Orris Concrete: Produced via steam distillation of dried rhizome powder

• Orris Absolute: Solvent-extracted from concrete using alcohol

• Orris Butter: Waxy semi-solid distillate rich in irones and fatty acids

Olfactory Profile & Perfumery Applications

Orris delivers a refined powdery-floral tone, often described as:

• Violet-like but with greater depth

• Carrot-rooty and slightly fruity (red fruit nuance)

• Earthy and sweet, with elegant tenacity

Key perfumery roles:

• Enhancer for iris, violet, rose, and aldehydic florals

• Used in orris soliflores or as a heart/base modifier

• Adds elegance in lipstick-style perfumes, chypres, and florientals

• Compatible with wood, musk, or balsamic fixatives

Although initially soft, its diffusion increases upon dilution, revealing complexity over time (Arctander, 1961).

Botanical Origin & Geographic Provenance

Orris materials are derived primarily from:

• Iris pallida – prized for highest irone content

• Iris germanica – used in combination or substitution

Cultivated mainly in:

• France (Grasse and Drôme Provençale) 🇫🇷

• Italy (Tuscany) 🇮🇹

• Morocco 🇲🇦

The rhizomes are typically peeled, dried, and stored for up to five years before processing. Peeling enhances quality by reducing off-notes caused by fibrous skins.

Extraction uses a turbodistillator, which stirs the powdered rhizomes during steam distillation, enhancing yield and consistency.

Chemical Composition and Olfactory Mechanism

Orris owes its scent to methylated ionones, particularly:

• cis-α-Irone

• trans-γ-Irone

• cis-γ-Irone

These compounds are odoriferous ketones formed during enzymatic and oxidative degradation of fatty acids over time.

Orris Concrete contains:

• 55–85% irones (by total volatiles)

• Myristic acid – contributes to fixative behavior but limits solubility in ethanol

Orris Absolute is selectively purified with ethanol, removing fatty components and enhancing olfactory purity. Though seemingly weak when smelled neat, it amplifies dramatically in dilution.

Regulatory & Safety Overview

• FDA Status: Approved flavorant – 21 CFR 172.510

• FEMA: 2827 – GRAS for use in flavor compositions

• REACH: Natural material; monograph listing applies

• Toxicology Notes:

  • Non-toxic at standard use levels

  • Potential allergenicity in unrefined concrete forms due to residual acids

  • Handle with care due to high cost and photodegradation risk

Additional Information

Flavor applications (Burdock, 2010):

• Used in alcoholic beverages, baked goods, non-alcoholic drinks, dairy desserts

• Adds rooty-floral nuance reminiscent of orris or violet root

Appearance:

• Orris Concrete: Yellow-brown solid, melts at 40–50 °C

• Orris Absolute: Thick amber liquid

• Orris Butter: Pale wax-like semi-solid

Aging and curing methods directly impact odor profile and irone yield, making source traceability and processing method critical for perfumery use.

Sources

• Arctander, S. (1961). Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin

• Burdock, G.A. (2010). Fenaroli’s Handbook of Flavor Ingredients – 6th ed.

• Scentspiracy Ingredient Archives – Rhizome-based Materials

• PubChem Compound Data – Irone Series