Heliotropex IFF

Synthetic Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer: IFF

• 🔎 Chemical Name: Proprietary Mixture

• 🧪 Synonyms: Heliotrope Base, Heliotropin Substitute

• 🧬 Chemical Formula: Not applicable (multi-component)

• 📂 CAS N°: Mixture (non-disclosed)

• 📘 FEMA: Not listed

• ⚖️ MW: Not applicable

• 📝 Odor Type: Floral, Gourmand

• 📈 Odor Strength: Medium

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile: Sweet, powdery, almond-like, reminiscent of heliotrope flowers; warm and nostalgic

• ⚗️ Uses: Floral and gourmand modifier; used in heliotrope, lilac, violet, and almond-themed fragrances

• 🧴 Appearance: Clear to pale liquid

• 🧪 Suggested Use Level: Up to 15% in final formula (trial recommended)

What is Heliotropex?

Heliotropex is a synthetic composition developed by IFF as a regulatory-compliant alternative to heliotropin (piperonal), which has faced increasing global restriction due to potential genotoxicity concerns. Unlike heliotropin, Heliotropex is a multi-component blend designed to recreate the sweet, balsamic, almond-vanilla notes that characterize heliotrope-themed perfumes. It does not function as a 1:1 substitute and should be tested thoroughly in formulation.

The exact composition of Heliotropex is proprietary, and its performance varies slightly across fragrance types. However, it consistently delivers a powdery-floral warmth suitable for both fine and functional perfumery.

Olfactory Profile & Perfumery Applications

Primary Scent Impression:

• Floral-powdery

• Slightly balsamic and almond-like

• Reminiscent of heliotrope, lilac, cherry blossom

Ideal Applications:

• Fine Fragrance: Floral bouquets, vintage-style floral orientals, and gourmand bases

• Functional Products: Soaps, body lotions, detergents, and air fresheners

• Candles and Home Fragrance: Performs well in wax matrices and diffusive formats

Fragrance Families:

• Floral: Lilac, Heliotrope, Mimosa, Cherry Blossom

• Gourmand: Vanilla-almond blends, Tonka bean accords

• Oriental: Adds warmth and sweetness to balsamic, spicy structures

Blending Recommendations:

• Violet Leaf Absolute, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, Tonalide, Iso E Super®, Methyl Ionones, and Vanillin derivatives

Regulatory & Safety Overview

• IFRA Compliance: Designed to be compliant with current IFRA restrictions on heliotropin

• CAS Registration: Composition is a proprietary mixture; no single CAS applies

• EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC 1223/2009): Does not require labeling as an allergen under standard conditions

• Toxicology: Considered safe at recommended concentrations; no known sensitization risk

• FEMA/Flavor Use: Not approved for use in flavors or ingestible products

✅ Heliotropex is considered safe and effective under IFRA guidelines. Always test in context-specific formulations due to variable interactions.

Additional Notes

• Performance Tip: While designed to mimic heliotropin, Heliotropex exhibits subtle differences in top note brightness and longevity. It is best evaluated in controlled trials within intended application matrices.

• Storage Recommendation: Store in cool, dry conditions in airtight containers to preserve stability and olfactory integrity.

Sources

• User-provided source materials

• IFF Technical Documentation (2023)

• Scentspiracy Archive (Fulvio Ciccolo, 2024)

• IFRA Standards (51st Amendment)

• Perfume and Flavor Chemicals – S. Arctander