Patchouli Oil MD

Natural Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer: IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances)

• 🔎 Chemical name: Essential oil of Pogostemon cablin (molecular distillation)

• 🧪 Synonyms: Patchouli MD, Molecularly Distilled Patchouli

• 🧬 Chemical Formula: Complex mixture; key components: patchoulol, norpatchoulenol

• 📂 CAS N°: 8014-09-3

• 📘 FEMA: 2838

• ⚖️ MW: Not applicable (natural mixture)

• 📝 Odor type: Woody, Earthy

• 📈 Odor Strength: High tenacity; medium diffusion

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile: Smooth woody-earthy core, sweet-herbaceous, balsamic; less minty or moldy than crude grades

• ⚗️ Uses: Oriental, woody, fougère, chypre accords; masking agent in personal care

• 🧴 Appearance: Pale amber, refined liquid; lower color index than crude oil

What is Patchouli Oil MD?

Patchouli Oil MD is a molecularly distilled version of the essential oil of Pogostemon cablin, refined by IFF to offer a more balanced, stable, and solubilized material for high-end fragrance design. The process removes non-odoriferous or off-note fractions while concentrating the core olfactory profile. This makes Patchouli MD an ideal candidate for clear formulations, solubility-sensitive applications, and projects requiring controlled tenacity without excessive earthiness.

Unlike crude patchouli, which can present sharp, camphoraceous or phenolic top notes, Patchouli MD offers an immediately smooth, aromatic-spicy opening that transitions cleanly into its woody, balsamic base.

Olfactory Profile and Perfumery Applications

Patchouli Oil MD performs as a fixative base note with moderate diffusion and high longevity. It retains the classical patchouli warmth and woody richness but presents it in a smoother, more controlled format. This makes it especially useful in transparent amber bases, modern chypres, and clean fougères.

Its low turbidity and higher molecular selectivity give perfumers greater precision in structure design, especially when used with:

• Sandalwood – for lactonic softness

• Vetiver – for smoky-woody drydown extension

• Oakmoss – for structure in chypre bases

• Ionones – to bridge floral and earthy elements

Patchouli MD can also be used in natural-modern reconstructions of classic accords, such as Cologne Impériale or vintage fougères, where clarity and diffusion are key.

Industrial and Technical Uses

The enhanced filtration and molecular profiling of Patchouli MD allow it to function in clear cosmetic systems, solubility-critical sprays, and deodorant formats, where crude grades may cause turbidity or discoloration. It is also preferred in premium skincare and haircare fragrances, offering natural depth without color stability concerns.

Regulatory and Safety Overview

• IFRA Restrictions: Not restricted in IFRA 51st Amendment

• EU Allergens: May contain traces of linalool, eugenol, limonene—subject to Annex III labeling limits

• FEMA GRAS Number: 2838 — Approved for flavor use

• ECHA Classification: Not hazardous at perfumery concentrations

• REACH Registration: Compliant under EU REACH for fragrance applications

• Toxicology Notes: Lower sensitization risk due to controlled component profile; batch consistency helps mitigate volatility-related dermal effects

✅ Safe under typical usage conditions in fragrance and personal care formulations.

Ingredient Connections and Synergies

Patchouli Oil MD differs from the other grades in technical behavior and olfactory finish:

• Patchouli Crude Oil – Offers depth, aged character, and intense earthy resonance. Use when rustic warmth and persistence are desired.

• Patchouli Light Indonesia Oil – Provides brightness and lifted diffusion with reduced base heaviness; ideal in modern, green-aromatic designs.

Together, these three grades allow formulators to dial in patchouli’s role precisely—whether aiming for vintage richness, modern freshness, or technical polish.

Sources:

• Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, S. Arctander (1961)

• IFF Ingredient Documentation (Patchouli MD TDS)

• FEMA GRAS Database

• Steffen Arctander – Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin

• IFRA Standards 51st Amendment

• ECHA Substance Database

• Fulvio Ciccolo – Scentspiracy Technical Archive