Javanol

Profile:

• 📂 CAS N° 198404-98-7

• ⚖️ MW — 222.37 g/mol

• 📝 Odor Type — Woody, specific character Sandalwood.

• 📈 Odor Strength — High, long-lasting up to 400hrs.

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Sandalwood, Creamy, Rosy, Powerful, citric aspect of rose.

• Description from Givaudan: “Javanol is a new-generation sandalwood molecule with unprecedented power and substantivity. It has a rich, natural, creamy sandalwood note like beta santanol. With its exceptional low threshold, it is approximately 8x more effective in wash tests on a weight basis than the most powerful known product. In addition, it’s very good stability, due in part to the complete absence of the double bond, makes it suitable for all applications except bleach.”

• 👅 Flavor Profile — Ambery, amber musk woody clean herbal floral clary sage sandalwood

• ⚗️ Use — Recommended use up to 2,000% in fragrance concentrate.

Introduction to Javanol

Javanol is a colorless, clear, viscous liquid that was invented in a lab at Givaudan more than 20 years ago. Unlike natural sandalwood oil, Javanol is not found in nature. Philip Kraft, a fragrance chemist and molecular designer at the company, unlocks the secrets of this exceptional odorant, which is chemically known as [(1R,2S)-1-methyl-2-[[(1R,3S,5S)-1,2,2-trimethyl-3-bicyclo[3.1.0]hexanyl]methyl]cyclopropyl]methanol.

The Quest for a Sandalwood Substitute

By the 1990s, harvesting natural sandalwood oil had become unsustainable and incredibly expensive. Major flavor and fragrance companies were in a race to find a new molecule that could replicate the sought-after sandalwood scent. Several good sandalwood molecules were already available, such as Sandela, Radjanol, and Ebanol from Givaudan, Bacdanol, Sanjinol, and Santaliff from IFF, and Brahmanol, Sandel 80, and Sandranol from Symrise. Firmenich had also found success with Polysantol.

The Discovery of Javanol

In 1996, Jerzy Bajgrowicz, a chemist at Givaudan, discovered Javanol, which soon became a game-changer in the sandalwood fragrance market. Javanol stood out because it fit the receptors in the nose that code for sandalwood more perfectly than other molecules. The more perfectly the sandalwood ‘foot’ fits the receptor’s ‘shoe’, the more intense the smell will be.

The Chemistry Behind Javanol

Bajgrowicz substituted the double bond in a part of the molecule called the ‘spacer’ with a cyclopropane ring. This three-membered ring maintains the electronic properties and rigidity of the double bond but improves hydrophobicity, making Javanol a near-perfect fit for the sandalwood receptor pockets in the nose. The bonds in the ring are bent like bananas, which makes the electrons sort of pop out. This provides electron density, which is crucial because the receptor in the nose ‘sees’ not just the silhouette of the molecule but its electronic shape. This electronic shape helps orientate and bind a molecule in a particular direction, depending on where its electrons are concentrated.

Applications of Javanol

In some cases, a very small dosage of Javanol (0.02%) can produce a boosting effect, adding volume and improved substantivity to traditional sandalwood-type compositions. Javanol is not exclusively a sandalwood note vector; its additional olfactive facets and low threshold enable trace amounts of the substance to impart interesting volume and radiance effects to all types of perfumes. The material rounds and provides sophisticated density to musky, floral, spicy, and woody accords.

Javanol is used to great effect in fragrances like Truth for Men by Calvin Klein and Chic for Men by Carolina Herrera, as well as being a vital component of Sandalwood Givco. However, many people find it so strong that it can easily come across as harsh, so careful dosing is required.

Insights from the Experts

In January 2007, Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine featured an article by Antoine Gaillard, a senior perfumer at Givaudan. He discussed the usage of Javanol, highlighting its performance and stability, which make it a backbone for all modern sandalwood notes. Gaillard noted, "The very specific scent of sandalwood oil is difficult to reproduce with a single molecule. The odor develops during evaporation of the oil and varies, depending upon the type of application in which it was incorporated. Consequently, a mixture of several synthetic sandalwood substitutes is necessary to obtain the olfactory profile of natural sandalwood oil. Because of its performance and stability, Javanol can be used as the backbone for all modern sandalwood notes.”

Safety Precautions

While Javanol is a remarkable molecule, it is important to handle it with care. It is classified as an irritant:

- R 36/38 - Irritating to skin and eyes.

- S 02 - Keep out of the reach of children.

- S 24/25 - Avoid contact with skin and eyes.

- S 26 - In case of contact with eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water and seek medical advice.

- S 36 - Wear suitable protective clothing.

Conclusion

Javanol represents a significant advancement in the fragrance industry, offering a synthetic alternative to natural sandalwood oil that is both effective and versatile. Its discovery and development are a testament to the innovative work being done in fragrance chemistry.

Sources:

• Fulvio Ciccolo

• TGSC Information System

• Givaudan

• National Center for Biotechnology Information (2020). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 22096564. Retrieved November 25, 2020 from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/22096564.