Amber Xtreme™

Technical Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer — IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances Inc.)

• 🔎 Chemical Name — 3-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl)propanal

• 🧪 Synonyms — Amber Xtreme™, Amber Extreme™

• 🧬 Chemical Formula — C₁₆H₂₈O

• 📂 CAS — 476332-65-7

• 📘 FEMA — Not listed

• ⚖️ MW — 236.39 g/mol

• 📝 Odor Type — Woody amber

• 📈 Odor Strength — Very high

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Dry amber, woody, musky, radiant, slightly animalic

• ⚗️ Uses — Woody-amber boosters, fixative, base extender

• 🧴 Appearance — Pale yellow to amber liquid

What is Amber Xtreme™?

Amber Xtreme™ is a highly potent synthetic aroma chemical developed by IFF. It belongs to the family of polycyclic woody-amber odorants, known for their extreme tenacity and radiance (Sell, 2014). Structurally derived from the ambrinol skeleton, it amplifies the performance and substantivity of base notes without the marine nuance of Ambroxide.

Historical Background

Amber Xtreme™ was launched by International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) as part of a new wave of high-impact, amber-woody materials, in response to perfumery’s growing demand for ingredients with enhanced radiance and long-lasting power (Kraft, 2005). Its development followed the commercial success of materials like Iso E Super and Ambrocenide, continuing the legacy of synthetic ambergris analogs pioneered in the mid-20th century (Arctander, 1960).

Olfactory Profile

Scent Family:

• Woody-Amber

Main Descriptors:

• Dry amber, woody, musky, slightly animalic, clean

Intensity and Tenacity:

• Amber Xtreme™ is among the most diffusive synthetic materials, with a perceivable presence even below 0.1% in formula (Sell, 2014). It demonstrates extreme substantivity on paper, fabric, and skin.

Volatility and Fixative Role:

• Low volatility, high boiling point

• Functions as a fixative and diffusion amplifier, often used in trace amounts to increase longevity of the full composition (Kraft, 2005)

Applications in Fine Fragrance

Amber Xtreme™ is widely used in:

• Woody, fougère, oriental, and ambery accords

• Masculine and unisex compositions requiring drydown strength

• Notable commercial fragrances (not always confirmed by INCI):

  • Dior Sauvage

  • Lalique Encre Noire à l’Extrême

  • Invictus by Paco Rabanne

It is valued for its ability to extend the projection of a fragrance, acting as a volume enhancer that reinforces both woody and musky facets (Sell, 2014).

Performance in Formula

• Extremely long-lasting and radiant

• Pairs well with:

  • Ambroxide, Cashmeran, Iso E Super, Cetalox, Musk ketone, vetiver, resins, and dry spices

• Must be dosed carefully, as overuse can lead to olfactory saturation and flattening of more delicate notes (Kraft, 2005)

Industrial & Technical Uses

Besides fine perfumery, Amber Xtreme™ finds application in:

• Laundry care and detergents: Substantive on fabric even post-wash

• Candles and air fresheners: Thermally stable and oxidation-resistant

• Personal care products: Provides a long-lasting clean woody base

Its exceptional performance in harsh environments makes it ideal for functional perfumery, especially in masculine hygiene and premium cleaning products (IFF, 2023).

Regulatory & Safety Overview

• IFRA (51st Amendment): Restricted use depending on product category. Must consult latest IFRA certificates.

• GHS Classification (IFF, 2023):

  • H317: May cause allergic skin reaction

  • H411: Toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects

  • Signal word: Warning

• EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC No. 1223/2009): Compliant with restrictions; not banned.

• REACH Registered: Yes, listed on ECHA

• Toxicology: Considered a skin sensitizer and environmental hazard due to aquatic toxicity. Must be disposed of properly (ECHA, 2024).

• FEMA: Not applicable (non-food use)

Additional Information

Amber Xtreme™ stands as a benchmark for extreme olfactory performance. It is especially useful to:

• Enhance projection in minimalist or transparent compositions

• Prolong the life of volatile ingredients

• Create contemporary dry amber accords without the sweetness of vanilla or coumarin

Due to its power, it is often used in trace amounts, but even at 0.01% it can create a noticeable aura in a finished fragrance (Sell, 2014).

References

• Arctander, S. (1960). Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals). Montclair, NJ: Self-published.

• Kraft, P. (2005). New polycyclic musks and ambergris odorants. Chemistry & Biodiversity, 2(6), 655–677. https://doi.org/10.1002/cbdv.200590049

• Sell, C. (2014). The Chemistry of Fragrances: From Perfumer to Consumer (2nd ed.). Royal Society of Chemistry.

• IFF. (2023). Amber Xtreme™ Safety Data Sheet. Retrieved from https://www.iff.com

• European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). (2024). Substance information: 3-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-Octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl)propanal [CAS 476332-65-7]. https://echa.europa.eu