Ambrettolide
Premium Synthetic Ingredient for Perfumery
Ambrettolide (CAS 28645-51-4) is a synthetic macrocyclic musk lactone with a rich ambrette-like scent and exceptional fixative power. Structurally related to the natural musk found in Ambrette seed oil, Ambrettolide is not chemically identical to that material but shares key olfactory features. With its smooth, slightly fruity character and musky-rosy undertone, it is widely regarded as one of the finest and most elegant synthetic musks available. Used in trace amounts, it synergizes with other musks, boosting radiance and roundness, especially in floral-fruity and white musky compositions.
Premium Synthetic Ingredient for Perfumery
Ambrettolide (CAS 28645-51-4) is a synthetic macrocyclic musk lactone with a rich ambrette-like scent and exceptional fixative power. Structurally related to the natural musk found in Ambrette seed oil, Ambrettolide is not chemically identical to that material but shares key olfactory features. With its smooth, slightly fruity character and musky-rosy undertone, it is widely regarded as one of the finest and most elegant synthetic musks available. Used in trace amounts, it synergizes with other musks, boosting radiance and roundness, especially in floral-fruity and white musky compositions.
Premium Synthetic Ingredient for Perfumery
Ambrettolide (CAS 28645-51-4) is a synthetic macrocyclic musk lactone with a rich ambrette-like scent and exceptional fixative power. Structurally related to the natural musk found in Ambrette seed oil, Ambrettolide is not chemically identical to that material but shares key olfactory features. With its smooth, slightly fruity character and musky-rosy undertone, it is widely regarded as one of the finest and most elegant synthetic musks available. Used in trace amounts, it synergizes with other musks, boosting radiance and roundness, especially in floral-fruity and white musky compositions.
Synthetic Ingredient Overview
🏭 Manufacturer: IFF, Symrise, Givaudan (various producers)
🔎 Chemical name: Iso-Ambrettolide
🧪 Synonyms: (±)-5,6,7,8-Tetrahydro-6,6,7,8-tetramethyl-2H-naphtho[2,1-b]pyran; Iso-Ambrettolide
🧬 Chemical Formula: C₁₅H₂₈O₂
📂 CAS N°: 28645-51-4
📘 FEMA: Not listed (not for flavor use)
⚖️ MW: 252.39 g/mol
📝 Odor type: Musk
📈 Odor Strength: Medium
👃🏼 Odor Profile: Soft musky-lactonic, pear, litchi, rosy, ambrette-like, subtly earthy
⚗️ Uses: Fixative and radiant enhancer; fruity musky blends; white floral and soft woody structures
🧴 Appearance: Colorless to pale yellow liquid
What is Ambrettolide?
Ambrettolide is a macrocyclic lactone widely used in perfumery for its naturalistic musk character and elegant diffusion. Although often confused with the true natural musk lactone found in ambrette seed (CAS 7779-50-2, (Z)-hexadec-7-en-16-olide), the commercially available iso-Ambrettolide (CAS 28645-51-4) is a synthetic analog with superior oxidative stability and more consistent olfactory performance.
Produced through macrocyclic lactonization of long-chain diacids and alcohols, Ambrettolide represents one of the few musk materials that performs well even at trace concentrations—making it an ideal fixative for modern compositions where clean, animalic transparency is desired.
Olfactory Profile and Perfumery Applications
Ambrettolide’s aroma is described as powdery, ambrette-musk, with nuances of pear skin, litchi, and red berries, and a rosy-floral halo. It is intensely smooth, with minimal harshness or waxy overtones, and provides a "rounding" effect in formulation.
Fragrance behavior:
Note placement: Base (but acts also in top diffusion)
Volatility: Low to medium
Tenacity: High (>168 hrs on blotter)
Usage range:
Trace (0.01–0.1%) in most formulations
Up to 1% in oriental or fruity bases
Used in:
Modern musky florals: Enhances roundness and diffusion
Fruity-floral blends: Reinforces pear, litchi, and berry nuances
White musks and macrocyclic structures: Boosts musky body
Amber and woody compositions: Lends softness and dry warmth
Blending behavior:
Exaltolide and Ethylene brassylate: Creates depth and synergy in macrocyclic musk accords
White fruits (pear, apple, lychee): Amplifies realism and roundness
Rose and peony notes: Adds back-of-the-nose bloom and radiance
⚠️ Avoid high doses with deep florals like jasmine, which may result in imbalance (as observed in field trials and internal assessments)
Technical and Structural Notes
Ambrettolide is structurally a 17-membered lactone, highly valued for its flexibility and lack of nitro or polycyclic structures. It is more environmentally safe and biodegradable, aligning with contemporary regulatory and sustainability criteria.
There is frequent confusion between true natural Ambrettolide (CAS 7779-50-2) and its synthetic isomers (CAS 28645-51-4). According to technical clarification by Mane analysts and Arctander’s own observations, iso-Ambrettolideis the commercially available form and is not identical to the musk isolated from ambrette seeds.
Regulatory and Safety Overview
Ambrettolide is generally well tolerated and non-sensitizing. It is not classified as hazardous, making it a favored musk material for dermal and leave-on formulations.
Regulatory summary:
IFRA: Not restricted (as of IFRA 51st Amendment)
EU Allergens: Not listed
FEMA: Not listed (non-flavor use only)
ECHA Classification: Not classified as hazardous
REACH: Fully compliant
Storage: Store protected from oxidation. Though relatively stable, antioxidant addition (e.g., BHT or tocopherol) is recommended for long-term use in alcohol-based products.
Sources
Arctander, S. (1961). Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
R. Calkin & J. Jellinek. Perfumery: Practice and Principles (1994)
Mane – Technical Correspondence (2023)
PubChem CID 5365703 – Ambrettolide
ECHA Substance Information – Ambrettolide (CAS 28645-51-4)
Scentspiracy internal archive of macrocyclic musks
