De Laire Bases: A Deep Dive into Perfumery's Building Blocks

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Written By Fulvio Ciccolo

De Laire bases, first invented by George De Laire in 1878, are pre-made fragrance accords, essentially "mini-perfumes," created by blending synthetic aroma chemicals with natural raw materials (Symrise, n.d.). These bases were concocted with the use of newly discovered synthetic molecules -such as Vanillin- that it was then mixed with other raw, high quality natural materials, thus obtaining unique and complex scents. De Laire bases were designed to simplify the perfumer's process, providing ready-made building blocks. Instead of working with single, sometimes harsh-smelling synthetic molecules, perfumers could use De Laire mixtures to achieve specific olfactory effects. De Laire’s approach to perfumery proved to be a fundamental stepping stone for the whole field, also becoming a fundamental aspect of haute perfumery.

Key Characteristics:

  • Complex Blends: They are not single ingredients but rather a carefully crafted mix of multiple aroma compounds (Symrise, n.d.).

  • Use of Synthetics: They prominently feature synthetic molecules, a key innovation in their development.

  • Use of Naturals: These bases combine synthetics with high-quality natural oils (Symrise, n.d.).

  • Pre-Perfumes: They act as ready-made accords, offering a specific scent profile.

  • Foundation for Perfumes: They serve as a starting point for perfumers to build their own unique fragrances (Symrise, n.d.).

A Historical Look at De Laire Bases

What follows are a few essential notes concerning the history of George De Laire and his company.

  • Georges de Laire's Contribution: Georges de Laire, along with chemists Ferdinand Tiemann and Wilhelm Haarmann, identified and synthesized vanillin, a key molecule in perfumery. His company initially focused on synthetic aroma chemicals and dyes (Perfume Projects, n.d.).

  • Marie-Thérèse de Laire's Innovation: Marie-Thérèse de Laire, the wife of Edgar de Laire (Georges' nephew), is credited with the brilliant idea of blending synthetic molecules with natural raw materials in 1891. This innovation led to the creation of De Laire bases. This made the synthetic ingredients easier to use, allowing perfumers to recognize their full potential.

  • The Rise of Modern Perfumery: De Laire bases played a vital role in the development of modern perfumery by introducing the use of synthetic molecules in a way that was palatable to perfumers.

  • Acquisition by Symrise: The company Fabriques de Laire went bankrupt in 1957 and was eventually acquired by the German company Haarmann & Reimer. Later, Haarmann & Reimer merged with Dragoco to form Symrise, who now owns the De Laire heritage (Barrister and Mann, 2023).

Iconic De Laire Bases

As was previously specified, many of the De Laire bases became pillars for perfumery as a whole. The following list, which was purposely brief in nature, was created with the intent to provide a proper idea of how important the De Laire products were and still are.

  • Ambre 83: Created in the 1880s, this base contains synthetic vanillin and natural materials like vetiver, patchouli, and jasmine (Symrise, n.d.; Perfume Shrine, 2011). It is notably used in Guerlain's "Jicky," and Chanel's "Bois des Iles."

  • Mousse de Saxe: Created by Marie-Thérèse de Laire. This base is known for its leather, mossy, and earthy profile, and is composed of geranium, anise (creating a licorice note), isobutyl quinoline (providing the leather notes), iodine, and vanillin (Perfume Shrine, 2011). It is found in perfumes like Caron's "Nuit de Noël," Molinard's "Habanita," and Guerlain's "L'Heure Bleue" and "Mitsouko."

  • Prunol: This base is found in Rochas' "Femme."

  • Bouvardia: This base is used in Guerlain's "Après L'Ondée."

  • Other notable bases: De Laire also created bases such as Cassis, Miel Blanc, and others.

Influence and Legacy of De Laire

  • Foundation of Iconic Perfumes: Many iconic perfumes from the late 19th and 20th centuries feature De Laire bases as key components (Barrister and Mann, 2023).

  • Pioneering Use of Synthetics: They helped to integrate synthetic molecules into perfumery, expanding the perfumer's palette.

  • Modern Perfumery: The bases contributed to the birth of modern perfumery by providing perfumers with new tools and creative possibilities.

  • Continued Relevance: Some of the classic bases, like Ambre 83, are still used today, and Symrise has recently relaunched modernized versions of several De Laire bases.

  • "Captive" Ingredients: De Laire bases often included "captive" ingredients, which are exclusive to the company, adding unique character to the fragrances.

Symrise's Modern Relaunch

Close-up of a luxurious gold-colored perfume bottle with a clear glass stopper. The label reads 'Haute Parfumerie de L'aire 1876' and 'Osmanthus G,' accompanied by the Symrise logo, showcasing an intricate, cursive design.

Symrise, the current owner of the De Laire heritage, has recently relaunched a collection of De Laire bases for the 21st century. These new bases are meant to honor the heritage of the originals while also incorporating modern trends and ingredients.

The relaunched bases include:

  • Rouge Groseille DL (red berries)

  • Miel Essentiel DL (honey)

  • Ambre 84 DL (amber)

  • Cuir Velours DL (leather)

  • Noir Prunol DL (intoxicating glamour)

  • Poivre Pique DL (pepper and anise)

 

References

Fulvio Ciccolo
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