De Laire Bases: A Deep Dive into Perfumery's Building Blocks

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Written By Fulvio Ciccolo

De Laire bases, first invented by George De Laire in 1878, are pre-made fragrance accords, essentially "mini-perfumes," created by blending synthetic aroma chemicals with natural raw materials (Symrise, n.d.). These bases were concocted with the use of newly discovered synthetic molecules -such as Vanillin- that it was then mixed with other raw, high quality natural materials, thus obtaining unique and complex scents. De Laire bases were designed to simplify the perfumer's process, providing ready-made building blocks. Instead of working with single, sometimes harsh-smelling synthetic molecules, perfumers could use De Laire mixtures to achieve specific olfactory effects. De Laire’s approach to perfumery proved to be a fundamental stepping stone for the whole field, also becoming a fundamental aspect of haute perfumery.

Key Characteristics:

  • Complex Blends: They are not single ingredients but rather a carefully crafted mix of multiple aroma compounds (Symrise, n.d.).

  • Use of Synthetics: They prominently feature synthetic molecules, a key innovation in their development.

  • Use of Naturals: These bases combine synthetics with high-quality natural oils (Symrise, n.d.).

  • Pre-Perfumes: They act as ready-made accords, offering a specific scent profile.

  • Foundation for Perfumes: They serve as a starting point for perfumers to build their own unique fragrances (Symrise, n.d.).

A Historical Look at De Laire Bases

What follows are a few essential notes concerning the history of George De Laire and his company.

  • Georges de Laire's Contribution: Georges de Laire, along with chemists Ferdinand Tiemann and Wilhelm Haarmann, identified and synthesized vanillin, a key molecule in perfumery. His company initially focused on synthetic aroma chemicals and dyes (Perfume Projects, n.d.).

  • Marie-Thérèse de Laire's Innovation: Marie-Thérèse de Laire, the wife of Edgar de Laire (Georges' nephew), is credited with the brilliant idea of blending synthetic molecules with natural raw materials in 1891. This innovation led to the creation of De Laire bases. This made the synthetic ingredients easier to use, allowing perfumers to recognize their full potential.

  • The Rise of Modern Perfumery: De Laire bases played a vital role in the development of modern perfumery by introducing the use of synthetic molecules in a way that was palatable to perfumers.

  • Acquisition by Symrise: The company Fabriques de Laire went bankrupt in 1957 and was eventually acquired by the German company Haarmann & Reimer. Later, Haarmann & Reimer merged with Dragoco to form Symrise, who now owns the De Laire heritage (Barrister and Mann, 2023).

Iconic De Laire Bases

As was previously specified, many of the De Laire bases became pillars for perfumery as a whole. The following list, which was purposely brief in nature, was created with the intent to provide a proper idea of how important the De Laire products were and still are.

  • Ambre 83: Created by G. de Laire & Reimer in 1874, this base contains the first ever combination of a Natural ingredient (Labdanum absolute) and a synthetic ingredient (Vanillin) — The amber accord. this combination is dressed with other ingredients but i don’t have official data to share yet. Its first use has been recorded in 1984 in Apple Blossom from Helena Rubinstein ( Perfumer Georges Reboul ).

  • Bouvardia: A base centered around ionone (the scent of violet), discovered by chance by Tiemann & Kruger while working with iris roots. By adding acid to the roots, a new molecule was cyclized, and the characteristic violet scent emerged. This base is exceptionally rich, blending notes of rose, jasmine, and orange flower. The first perfume to feature this base was Après l’Ondée by Guerlain, crafted by Jacques Guerlain, the third-generation perfumer of the family. This fragrance belongs to the Floral Spicy Amber family. Notably, it also marked the first use of Anisic Aldehyde (Aubépine) in combination with the Bouvardia base, iris, jasmine, and abundant musk.

  • Flonol: The Flonol Base was developed to enhance and refine the appeal of Methyl Anthranilate, a molecule discovered relatively recently by Erdmann in 1898. This molecule, known for its sweet, floral character reminiscent of orange blossom, required careful formulation to bring out its full potential in perfumery. De Laire’s approach was to balance the molecule’s profile by blending it with natural essences, including Orange Blossom, Petitgrain, and Neroli. These additions not only complemented the distinctive facets of Methyl Anthranilate but also elevated its olfactory richness, creating a harmonious and sophisticated floral base. The result was a composition with approximately 8% Methyl Anthranilate, seamlessly integrated into a bouquet of natural floral notes. The Flonol Base made its debut in 1905 in L’Origan by François Coty, widely regarded as the father of modern perfumery. This iconic fragrance belonged to the Amber Floral Spicy olfactory family and became a cornerstone of early modern perfumery, showcasing the transformative power of bases like Flonol in creating complex, enduring fragrances. The success of Flonol did not end with L’Origan. It was later featured in Cœur de Jeannette by Houbigant, another historical masterpiece of perfumery. Both fragrances demonstrated the versatility of the Flonol Base in crafting compositions that balanced innovation with timeless elegance.

  • Coroliane: a masterful creation that highlights the delicate and enchanting scent of Lily of the Valley, made possible by the incorporation of Hydroxycitronellal. This molecule, discovered by the Knoll company in the early 1900s, became the cornerstone for capturing the fresh, green floral nuances of the lily of the valley note in perfumery. In the 1940s, the renowned perfumer Henri Robert joined De Laire and developed this remarkable base, which would go on to become one of the signature creations of the De Laire house. Coroliane exemplifies De Laire's expertise in crafting elegant and enduring olfactory structures. The first notable use of the Coroliane Base was in 1970, when Henri Robert himself employed it in the iconic fragrance Chanel No. 19. This composition, part of the Green Floral family, showcased the timeless appeal of the Coroliane Base, blending its soft floral transparency with a green, vibrant edge. It became a hallmark of refined sophistication, perfectly aligning with the legacy of De Laire and the artistry of Chanel.

  • Prunol Extra Base (Edmond Roudnitska): After Henri Robert transitioned to Chanel, Edmond Roudnitska joined the De Laire house, where he was mentored by the exceptional Marie Thérèse de Laire. Under her guidance, Roudnitska began exploring the potential of certain lactones, molecules discovered around the early 20th century (circa 1908), which played a key role in shaping the fruity, creamy notes in perfumery. Roudnitska was particularly inspired by Guerlain's legendary Mitsouko, a Fruity Chypre that masterfully blended the iconic C-14 lactone (peach) with the oakmoss accord. Building on Mitsouko’s concept, he enriched the idea further by incorporating C-14 with C-18 lactone (coconut), spices such as cardamom and cumin, and an elegant balance of violet, patchouli, and other fruity notes like peach. This innovative accord gave birth to one of Roudnitska’s most famous works: Femme de Rochas in 1944, an exceptional Fruity Chypre. It was said to be a fragrance so potent and distinctive that it announced a woman’s presence even before she entered the room. The legacy of Prunol Extra’s opulent, fruity, and spicy character continued to inspire perfumers decades later. For instance, in 1996, Dominique Ropion revisited this style with Kenzo Jungle L’Éléphant, a fragrance in the Amber Floral Fruity family that reflected the daring and lush qualities of Prunol Extra.

  • Mousse de Saxe (Marie Thérèse de Laire): one of the most iconic bases in perfumery, designed to make the challenging molecule Iso Butyl Quinoline more approachable and versatile. Discovered by Georges Darzens around 1900, Iso Butyl Quinoline introduces a bold leathery-green note that is as distinctive as it is polarizing. Mousse de Saxe is not just a base—it is a composition so characteristic that it stands as a perfume in its own right. This base has been used in several iconic fragrances, cementing its legacy in the olfactory world. Key Highlights:

    Signature Scent: The best example of Mousse de Saxe’s impact can be found in Nuit de Noël (1922) by Caron, crafted by Ernest Daltroff. This fragrance belongs to the Amber Floral Woody family, showcasing the complexity and elegance of the base.

    • Habanita by Molinard (1921): Another iconic usage of the base, where Mousse de Saxe is skillfully combined with vanilla and vetiver, adding depth and character to the fragrance’s Amber Floral Woody profile.

    • Opium (1970s): The base also found a place in this legendary fragrance, further showcasing its versatility and timeless appeal.

    Mousse de Saxe is a masterpiece of formulation, demonstrating how challenging molecules like Iso Butyl Quinoline can be transformed into olfactory gold. Its leathery, green, and slightly floral character continues to inspire modern creations, bridging the gap between vintage complexity and contemporary elegance.

Influence and Legacy of De Laire

  • Foundation of Iconic Perfumes: Many iconic perfumes from the late 19th and 20th centuries feature De Laire bases as key components (Barrister and Mann, 2023).

  • Pioneering Use of Synthetics: They helped to integrate synthetic molecules into perfumery, expanding the perfumer's palette.

  • Modern Perfumery: The bases contributed to the birth of modern perfumery by providing perfumers with new tools and creative possibilities.

  • Continued Relevance: Some of the classic bases, like Ambre 83, are still used today, and Symrise has recently relaunched modernized versions of several De Laire bases.

  • "Captive" Ingredients: De Laire bases often included "captive" ingredients, which are exclusive to the company, adding unique character to the fragrances.

Symrise's Modern Relaunch

Close-up of a luxurious gold-colored perfume bottle with a clear glass stopper. The label reads 'Haute Parfumerie de L'aire 1876' and 'Osmanthus G,' accompanied by the Symrise logo, showcasing an intricate, cursive design.

Symrise, the current owner of the De Laire heritage, has recently relaunched a collection of De Laire bases for the 21st century. These new bases are meant to honor the heritage of the originals while also incorporating modern trends and ingredients.

The relaunched bases include:

Noir Prunol DL

This modernized version of Prunol Extra revisits the concept of lactones while introducing cutting-edge captif moleculeslike Tonkalactone, which bring a warm, creamy, and sophisticated texture to the accord. Noir Prunol DL reinterprets the richness of the original while adapting it to contemporary tastes and values. To enhance its appeal, cumin, a divisive ingredient, has been removed from the formula. In its place, a touch of Madagascar Cinnamon has been added, introducing a refined, spicy warmth to the composition. This cinnamon is sustainably sourced, aligning with Symrise's responsible practices for supporting Madagascar's ecosystems and communities. The fragrance also incorporates a carefully curated blend of ingredients, including:

  • Tiramisone®: adding a balsamic sweetness,

  • A bouquet of spices: for depth and complexity,

  • Ylang-Ylang and Vanilla: offering exotic floralcy and a creamy sweetness that balance the composition.

Noir Prunol DL stands as a testament to the evolution of perfumery, honoring the heritage of Prunol Extra while offering a sleek, modernized profile that meets today’s preferences for sustainability and innovation.

Miel Essentiel DL

Modernized by Symrise, Miel Essentiel DL is an evolution of the traditional Miel Blanc base, enriched with a gourmand twist. This reimagined composition balances the original's honeyed character with contemporary gourmand and creamy notes, making it a versatile and luxurious addition to modern perfumery.

Key elements of this updated base include:

  • Nougat Lacté: Offering a creamy, confectionary sweetness.

  • Aubépine (Hawthorn): Adding a delicate floral touch.

  • Tiramisone: Introducing balsamic and gourmand nuances.

  • A honey accord reminiscent of the predecessor but smoother and more refined.

  • Tonkalactone: A captif molecule from Symrise that enhances the creamy and warm aspects of the composition.

  • Significant amounts of Madagascar Vanilla Absolute, sourced sustainably for a rich, exotic sweetness.

  • Sulfurol: Adding depth and complexity with subtle roasted and savory facets.

This modernization retains the charm of Miel Blanc while amplifying its gourmand appeal, making it a compelling choice for fragrances with warm, comforting, and indulgent profiles.

Mousse de Saxe 18 DL:

This modernized interpretation by Symrise reimagines the classic Mousse de Saxe, focusing on creating a lighter, less "dark" version while preserving the essence of its historical legacy. The goal was to highlight and integrate the most important elements of the original base, particularly its oakmoss (mousse de chêne) character. Key Modifications:

  • Replacement of Oakmoss: Traditional oakmoss has been substituted with modern Evernyl, aligning with regulatory changes while maintaining a mossy depth.

  • Reduced Iso Butyl Quinoline: The use of this leathery molecule has been toned down, softening its intensity.

  • Enhanced Marine Character: The marine facet of the base has been amplified, introducing iodized and humid qualities that evoke the freshness of the sea. This is achieved by:

    • Strengthening the marine aspect of oakmoss through more ozonic and airy nuances.

    • Incorporating Fucus Absolute (seaweed absolute), a rare material that adds a signature marine touch reminiscent of algae and the ocean. This ingredient is challenging to use in its pure form, but within the base, it becomes accessible to perfumers while retaining the creative spirit of De Laire.

By emphasizing iodized and marine notes, Symrise has adapted Mousse de Saxe to modern olfactory trends, transforming it into a versatile base that balances tradition with innovation. Mousse de Saxe 18 DL is a testament to the enduring influence of De Laire’s creations while reflecting contemporary demands for lighter, more refined compositions.

Rouge Groseille DL

an innovative red fruit base developed by Symrise, utilizing a captif molecule that introduces a strikingly unique profile. This captif, known as Spicatanate, is characterized by an intense garlic-like odor in its pure form. However, when diluted to 1% or 0.1%, it transforms, unveiling a vibrant red fruit note with a subtle sparkling quality that adds a lively dimension to the base. Key Notes:

  • Red Fruity Notes: Dominant and juicy, evoking red currants and berries.

  • Davana Oil: Contributing a sweet, herbaceous complexity.

  • Osmanthus Absolute: Adding floral and apricot-like nuances.

  • Cognac (Traces): A subtle, boozy depth that enhances the gourmand aspect.

This base blends fruitiness with a touch of effervescence, making it a versatile choice for modern perfumery, particularly in creating fruity, vibrant, and slightly gourmand compositions.

Ambre 84 DL, The Successor to Ambre 83

Ambre 84 DL builds on the legacy of the iconic Ambre 83, offering a modern reinterpretation that aligns with contemporary olfactory trends. Conceived as the "Vanillin of the 21st Century," this base introduces a more complex and nuanced character while retaining the comforting sweetness associated with amber fragrances. The composition blends classic and innovative materials to create a multifaceted profile. At its core lies vanillin, a timeless gourmand staple, complemented by ethyl maltol, which brings a caramelized, sugary depth. The inclusion of Tiramison adds an intriguing layer, evoking the richness of tiramisu, cocoa, and a hint of alcohol, enhancing the gourmand appeal. Ambrostar contributes woody and ambery facets, lending the base both depth and sophistication. The resinous warmth of labdanum and the earthy, grounding quality of patchouli anchor the composition, while benzoin provides a sweet, resinous finish. Together, these elements create a base that is both familiar and contemporary, perfectly suited for modern perfumery. Ambre 84 DL is a versatile foundation, designed to enhance fragrances with its warm, long-lasting character. It bridges the gap between gourmand, woody, and ambery notes, offering perfumers a tool to craft compositions that are both timeless and innovative.

Ambre d’Or(ient)

A reimagined version of the Ambre 84 DL base, tailored specifically for the oriental market, where the sweeter nuances of Ambre 83 and 84 are less preferred. This adaptation seeks to create a unique oriental gourmandise, blending rich, resinous, and spicy notes with a sophisticated gourmand touch. The base introduces Oud as a central element, adding depth and an unmistakable oriental signature. Ethyl maltol remains, providing a subtle caramelized sweetness, while the use of Tiramisone is reduced or potentially replaced with a more suitable essence to blend with oud. Safranal enhances the oriental identity with its warm and spicy saffron-like aroma, complemented by the woody-ambery presence of Ambrostar. Further complexity comes from the inclusion of Madagascar cinnamon, which adds a touch of exotic spiciness, and Coumarin F, which contributes a sweet, hay-like quality, rounding out the base. Ambre d’Or is a refined and versatile base that perfectly captures the opulent and rich character of the oriental olfactory palette, offering perfumers an elevated tool for crafting fragrances suited to this market’s preferences.

 

References

Fulvio Ciccolo
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