Ambrofix ®

Technical Ingredient Overview

• 🏭 Manufacturer — Givaudan

• 🔎 Chemical Name — (1R,3R,5R,7R,8S)-1,8,8-trimethyl-2-oxa-4-oxobicyclo[3.3.1]nonane

• 🧪 Synonyms — Ambroxan, Ambroxide, Ambrox®, Ambrofix®

• 🧬 Chemical Formula — C₁₆H₂₈O

• 📂 CAS — 6790-58-5 / 3738-00-9

• 📘 FEMA — 3434

• ⚖️ MW — 236.39 g/mol

• 📝 Odor Type — Ambergris, woody, musky

• 📈 Odor Strength — Medium to strong

• 👃🏼 Odor Profile — Warm ambergris, dry woody, musky, slightly animalic, creamy, radiant

• ⚗️ Uses — Fine fragrance, functional perfumery, hair & skin care, fabric care

• 🧴 Appearance — White crystalline solid or flakes

What is Ambrofix®?

Ambrofix® is Givaudan’s trademarked, 100% renewable and biotechnologically derived form of Ambroxide, one of the most important modern ambergris-type aroma chemicals. It replicates the iconic structure of Ambroxan, yet it is produced via fermentation of sugarcane-derived feedstocks, offering a carbon-efficient alternative to traditional synthetic or semisynthetic methods. It provides high olfactory performance, extreme stability, and powerful substantivity.

Historical Background

The origin of Ambroxide-based compounds dates back to the 1950s, when Firmenich first developed Ambrox® from sclareol, a diterpene extracted from Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea) (Sell, 2014). Over the decades, Ambroxan became an indispensable material in perfumery for recreating the scent of ambergris, a rare natural secretion from the sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus).

In 2021, Givaudan launched Ambrofix®, applying green chemistry principles and leveraging biotechnology to obtain the molecule from 100% renewable carbon. This approach drastically reduces environmental impact while maintaining identical olfactory and physicochemical performance (Givaudan, 2021).

Olfactory Profile

Scent Family: Woody-Amber

Main Descriptors: Ambergris, dry wood, musky, smooth, clean, radiant

Intensity & Tenacity: Medium to high strength; outstanding longevity on skin and fabric

Volatility: Low

Fixative Role: Excellent fixative with high substantivity and radiance in the base notes

Applications in Fine Fragrance

Ambrofix® is a pillar material in modern perfumery. It serves as:

• A signature ambergris substitute in amber, fougère, musky, and woody compositions

• A fixative and radiance booster for florals, orientals, and aquatics

• A background enhancer for iso E super-rich or musk-forward accords

Notable perfumes (using Ambroxan or Ambrofix® analogs):

• Escentric Molecules 02 (Geza Schoen)

• Juliette Has a Gun — Not a Perfume

• Maison Francis Kurkdjian — Baccarat Rouge 540

Performance in Formula

Ambrofix® exhibits:

• High diffusivity even at low doses (0.5–5%)

• Exceptional stability across pH ranges, light, oxidation, and temperature

• Compatibility with a wide range of materials including musks, lactones, and aldehydes

• Excellent retention in textiles and skin adhesion, especially in long-wear formats

Industrial & Technical Uses

In addition to fine fragrance, Ambrofix® is widely applied in:

• Functional perfumery: long-lasting notes in detergents, shampoos, and deodorants

• Fabric care: enhances freshness and scent retention in laundry formulations

• Personal care: provides creamy amber musky warmth in body lotions and hair care

• Home care: adds smooth woody undertones in candles and air fresheners

Regulatory & Safety Overview

• IFRA Compliance: Allowed for use under the current IFRA 51st Amendment; no specific restrictions

• GHS Classification: Not classified as hazardous under GHS

• EU Cosmetics Regulation: Permitted; no labeling required under allergen declaration

• Toxicology: Low toxicity; non-sensitizing and non-phototoxic in standard assays (RIFM, 2020)

• REACH Registered

• FEMA GRAS — FEMA No. 3434, approved for flavor use (though rarely applied in flavoring)

Additional Information

Sustainability Note:

According to Givaudan’s LCA, Ambrofix® reduces carbon footprint by up to 99% compared to traditional Ambrox® production. It is readily biodegradable, manufactured in a water-efficient bioprocess, and meets the standards of green chemistry and sustainable sourcing.

INCI (for cosmetic use): Ambroxide

References

• Givaudan. (2021). Ambrofix: Sustainable biotechnology-based Ambrox. Retrieved from https://www.givaudan.com

• Sell, C. S. (2014). The Chemistry of Fragrances (2nd ed.). Royal Society of Chemistry.

• Arctander, S. (1960). Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals).

• Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). (2020). Safety Assessment for Ambroxide.

• PubChem. (n.d.). Ambroxide (CID 10733). National Institutes of Health.

• FEMA. (n.d.). Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association — FEMA No. 3434.