The Fragrant History of the Rose in Perfumery
Introduction to the Queen of Flowers
The rose, long hailed as the queen of flowers, is a timeless muse for poets, painters, and perfumers alike. A universal symbol of love, beauty, youth, and royalty, the rose holds an unrivaled position in both cultural lore and the world of scent. In perfumery, it appears in two primary olfactory qualities—each unlocking a captivating, multifaceted fragrance profile that continues to enchant.
The Olfactory Complexity of the Rose
Rose essence is renowned for its extraordinary complexity. Simultaneously intense and delicate, sensual and transparent, velvety and crystalline, its scent defies singular classification. Its allure has inspired generations of creatives, from Boccaccio to Shakespeare, who immortalized its richness in themes of passion and youth.
Despite the existence of over 30,000 cultivated rose varieties and more than 200 wild species, only two are widely esteemed in perfumery for their aromatic yield:
Damask rose (Rosa × damascena), also known as Turkish rose
Centifolia rose (Rosa × centifolia), commonly called May rose or Grasse rose
These two species provide the cornerstone of high-grade rose extracts used across fine fragrance formulation.
Botanical Origins and Etymology
The rose is a woody perennial shrub, often thorned or climbing, that typically grows to a height of 1–2 meters. Its iconic blooms feature around 36 symmetrically arranged petals, usually in vibrant to soft shades of pink. The term rosa originates from Latin, used historically to describe members of the Rosaceae plant family. Etymological roots also trace to the Greek rhodon (possibly referring to thorns) and the Germanic Rothaid, meaning “of noble lineage.”
Botanically, the rose is an ancient genus, with fossil evidence dating back over 25 million years—predating Homo sapiens. Cultivated in China for more than 3,000 years, the rose was originally valued for its medicinal properties. Its resilience and ability to propagate independently have contributed to its enduring presence.
Historical Use and Cultural Significance
The rose has a long-standing legacy in fragrance and cosmetics. Celebrated by the ancient Persians, Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, it was a prominent ingredient in early unguents and skincare rituals. In 18th-century Morocco, rosewater production through distillation became widespread, thanks to the techniques of Arab and Berber communities.
During lavish Roman banquets—particularly under Emperor Nero—rose petals were scattered extravagantly, filling the air with perfume. Today, the major rose-producing countries include:
France (notably Grasse, where the May rose blooms between late May and early June)
Turkey
Bulgaria
Morocco
Extraction Methods and Yield
Rose extracts are produced via different techniques:
Steam distillation of fresh blossoms (to obtain rose essential oil)
Solvent extraction (for rose concrete and absolute)
The extraction process is highly material-intensive:
300–400 kg of flowers → 1 kg of rose concrete
4,000–5,000 kg → 1 kg of rose absolute
4–5 metric tons → 1 kg of rose essential oil
To illustrate: if a perfume contains just 0.1% (1/1000) of rose essence, it embodies the aromatic soul of approximately 30 rose blossoms.
Cultural Legends and Symbolic Associations
The rose has long embodied love, secrecy, and divine beauty:
In Greek and Roman mythology, the rose was believed to be of divine origin. One legend tells that Venus, goddess of beauty, pricked her finger on a white rose’s thorn—her blood turning the petals red, creating the first perfume in history. Captivated, Cupid kissed the red rose, bestowing it with eternal fragrance.
Another tale recounts that Cleopatra and Mark Antony shared their first night of love on a bed strewn with crimson roses.
In Catholic symbolism, the rose is a sacred attribute of the Virgin Mary, especially honored during May, her dedicated month. The Golden Rose, a symbol of loyalty and virtue, was historically sent by the Pope to monarchs and sanctuaries.
In Bulgarian tradition, women devote Fridays (associated with Venus) to beauty rituals using rose-based products.
Additionally, the white rose, with its concealed floral heart, represents secrecy and discretion. In ecclesiastical settings, the term sub rosa (“under the rose”) was a mark of confidential confession.
Additional Insights on Rose Cultivation and Scent Design
The scent of rose in perfumery is rarely used in isolation. Instead, it is layered and modulated—often balanced with citrus, musks, or green notes to accentuate its floral or spicy dimensions. It serves as a central heart note in countless iconic fragrances and is also used as a natural fixative, subtly enhancing longevity and bouquet complexity.
Sources
Original Italian text, La grammatica dei profumi. Fulvio Ciccolo English transportation.
Photo by Biel Morro on Unsplash