Goodbye Karanal
Goodbye Karanal
This substance has been added to the list of substances of very high concern by the European authorities.
The deadline for placing products containing KARANAL on the market will be until August 27, 2023. As a result, GIVAUDAN will stop supplying this material during the year 2022.
There are already substitutes and we will make them available soon.
About Karanal
Karanal is a colorless liquid with a powerful and radiant woody amber odor of high tenacity with some sort a fruity nuances (watermelon, IMO). The material is prepared by acetalization of 2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde with the corresponding diol.
A famous use of this product is in Gucci pour Homme 2003, now discontinued.
Edouard Fléchier, used it memorably in EdPF Malle’s Une Rose, recently reformulated
Discovered in 1987 by Karen J. Rossiter at Quest International (acquisition by rival Givaudan in 2005). Karen J. Rossiter was born in Ashford, Kent, England, in 1964.
She received her degree in chemistry from the Royal Society of Chemistry in 1990 and is presently doing a part-time Ph.D. into the relationship between chemical structure and odor. This work is sponsored by Quest International, one of the world leaders in the fragrance, flavor, and food ingredient industry, and is being carried out in collaboration with the University of Kent. She is also a member of the UK QSAR discussion group.
Karen Rossiter has worked for more than 10 years as an organic chemist in the Research Department of the Fragrance Division of Quest International. She has been involved in both process development and the discovery of new fragrance ingredients and has had one commercially successful new aroma chemical. Karanal. named after her. Her research interests are in structure-activity relationships and their use in the design of novel fragrance ingredients.
Personal considerations about the ingredient
I firmly believe that one should make these discoveries by himself: Karanal has a great dry ambery diffusion, I would start selecting the best dry amber molecule (chemically would be Okoumal, you'd miss a clear watermelon side note that karanal has). Once that done, complete that fruity note with some high impact aldehyde.
Sources and informations
Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, Kurt Bauer, Dorothea Garbe, Horst Surburg
Ullmann's Food and Feed, 3 Volume Set, Volume 1
Triller, Annika & Boulden, Elizabeth & Churchill, Anne & Hatt, Hanns & Englund, Joakim & Spehr, Marc & Sell, Charles. (2008). Odorant–Receptor Interactions and Odor Percept: A Chemical Perspective. Chemistry & biodiversity. 5. 862-86. 10.1002/cbdv.200890101.